17th Century Woodworking



Exactly how To Comprehend the Basics of Wood Working.



17th century woodworking
 

Comprehend the principles.
 

A wood coating is a clear, transparent finish related to wood to protect it from dampness as well as to make it look richer and deeper. This differs from paint, which is a wood finish filled with adequate pigment to hidethe wood. 
And also it differs from a stain,which is a wood finish and a colorant (pigment ordye) with a lot of thinner added so the excess stain is easy to rub out. The 17th century woodworking remainder simply shades the timber; it does not conceal the wood.
Unfortunately, the term "finish" additionally describes the whole built-up covering, which could include discolor, numerous coats of surface (a " layer" is one application layer) and perhaps some coloring actions-- as an example, glazing or toning-- in between these coats. For one reason or another, we have just one word to refer to both the clear finish made use of, and to all the steps made use of.
Generally, the context makes clear to which is being referred.


17th Century Woodworking: Purpose of a Finish

A surface offers 2 purposes: security and design.

Security implies resistance to moisture infiltration. In all instances, the thicker the finish, the more moisture-resistant it is. 3 coats are much more protective than 2, for example. Boiled linseed oil, 100% tung oil and also wax will dry out soft andgummy, nevertheless, so all the extra has to be wiped off after each application to achieve a functional surface. Therefore, no substantial density can be accomplished. Security is limited with these finishes.

Surfaces enhance by making wood appearancericher as well as much deeper. The influence is much less significant on unblemished lighter woods such as maple and also birch, and also better on stained and darker timbers such as cherry as well as walnut.

 

Types of Timber Complete

Common categories of wood coating consist of the following:

Oil (boiled linseed oil, 100 percent tung oil and also blends of these oils and varnish).

Oil-based varnish ( consisting of alkyd, polyurethane, spar, wiping as well as gel varnish).

Water-based surface (a surface that thins and also tidies up with water).

Shellac (an old surface stemmed from material secretions of the lac bug).

Lacquer (the surface utilized on mostly all mass-manufactured house furniture made considering that the 1920s).

A large number of two-part, high-performance finishes used in industry as well as by many specialist cabinet stores.

Wiping varnish is alkyd or polyurethane varnish thinned concerninghalf with mineral spirits so it's easy to wipe on and wipe off. You can make your own, or there are a large number of brands, which, unfortunately, are poorly labeled. learn more on cleaning varnish right here).
 

The main distinctions in the coatings are as complies with:

■ Scrape, solvent and also warm resistance. Oil-based varnishes and also high-performance surfaces supply the most effective scrape, solvent and also heat resistance. Water-based coatings are next. 

Shellac and lacquer are vulnerable to all 3 types of damages. Oil is too slimto be efficient.

■ Color. Water-based 17th century woodworking finishes include little color to the timber. All various other coatings ( other than perhaps CAB-Acrylic) include some level of yellow-to-orange coloring.

■ Drying out time. Shellac, lacquer as well as high-performance surfaces dry the fastest. Water-based finishes are next. Varnish and oil require over nightdrying in a cozy area.

■ Solvent security. Steamed linseed oil and 100 percent tung oil are the least poisonous surfaces to breathe throughout application since they do not have solvent. Water-based finishes (thinned with water as well as a little solvent) and also shellac (thinned with denatured alcohol) are next. 

Oil-based varnish thins with mineral spirits (paint thinner), which some individuals discover undesirable but which isn't especially harmful. Lacquer and alsohigh-performance finishes slim with solvents that are the most hazardous to be around.
 

17th Century Woodworking: Securing Wood.

The very first coat of any kind of finish secures the timber-- that is, clogs the pores in the timber so the following layer of coating (or other liquids) doesn't pass through quickly. This first coat increases the grain of the timber, making it really feel harsh. You mustsand this first coat (with simply your returning the sandpaper) to make it feel smooth. You don't require a unique item for this initial coat unless you haveone of two troubles you want to get over.

■ Alkyd varnish and also lacquer can gum up sandpaper when fined sand, so makers of each give aspecial product called "sanding sealant" with dry lubricating substances contributed to make sanding much easier and also speed yourwork.

Sanding sealants deteriorate the coating, nonetheless, so you mustuse them just when you're finishing a largeproject or doing manufacturing work.

■ In some cases, there are troubles in the wood that need to be blocked off with a unique sealer so they do not telegraph with all the layers. These issues are resinous knots in softwoods such as pine, silicone oil from furnishings brightens that triggers the coating to bunch up right into ridges or hollow out into craters, as well as smoke and animal-urine smells. The coating that blocks these issues (" seals them in") is shellac, and it ought to be made use offor the first coat. Notice that, except for resinous knots, the issues are connected with refinishing.

 

Sheen.

Oil-based varnishes, water-based coatings and also lacquers are offered in a selection of lusters, varying from gloss to level. All sheens other than gloss are produced by the solid-particle "flatting representatives" manufacturers contribute to the coating. The even more flatting representative added, the flatter the shine. These flatting fragments work out to the bottom of the container, so you need to mix theminto suspension prior to each use. 17th Century Woodworking

You can get any kind of shine you desire by pouring off several of the gloss from a canister in which the flatting representative has actually worked out (don't allow the store clerk tremble the can) and also mixing the two parts. 

Or you can blend canisters of gloss as well as satin to obtain something in between. You will certainly require to apply the surface to see the sheen you'llget. It's the last layer you use that identifies the shine (there is no collective effect), so you can trying out each layer.

 

Complete Application.

Oil, wax, cleaning varnish and gel varnish can be applied with a fabric or brush, then rubbed out. The various other surfaces are typically used with a brush or spray gun.

Brushing is straightforward-- essentially no different than brushing paint. Spraying is likewise easy, however spray-gun care and also tuning is much more challenging, as well as spray guns and also their resourcesof air (compressor or generator) are substantially much more pricey than brushes.
 

Application Troubles.

Typical troubles and methods to prevent them:.

■ Brush marks and also orange peel. Eliminate these by thinning the surface 10 percent to 30 percent so it degrees better.

■ Runs and also sags. View what is taking place in a shown light and brush out the runsand droops as they occur.

■ Dirt nibs. Keep your devices, the surface and the air in the space as clean as possible.

■ Bubbles. Brush back over to stand out the bubbles, or slim the finish 10 percent to 30 percent so the bubbles have even more time to pop out.

No matter what the trouble, you can always repair it by fining sand the coating degree and also applying another layer.


 

17th Century Woodworking